I’ve gutted the cheap Ryobi battery-cap chargers (the P111 and there’s one other whose number I don’t know) and the P150 battery-gauge, to bring out the power contacts to run stuff like my TS100 soldering iron, a series of LED lights, and yes, another gutted DeWalt 18v battery so we could run my buddy’s DeWalt radio off my spare Ryobi batteries. It moved the center of gravity back a bit too, which was welcome on an otherwise-nose-heavy tool. I made a simple adapter by chopping up a scrap Ryobi flashlight to get the battery socket, and grafting it into a gutted Black&Decker battery, to allow my dad’s B&D weedwacker to run from his Ryobi batteries. All the parts are on Thingiverse, just gotta combine 'em and print one… I wish SOMEone would make an adapter to use Ridgid 18v slide batteries on Ryobi post tools. Of course these work in other Ryobi 18v tools, too. The adapter also will not work with FlexVolt batteries.Surebonder makes a hot-glue gun that takes Ryobi 18v post batteries, and then they make adapters for Makita and Milwaukee batteries to fit their glue guns. They do, however, give an amply large list of exceptions-likely for some of the reasons stated above. It lets you use 20V Max batteries in most of their 18V tools. As an example, the DeWalt DCA1820 battery adapter ( $39.99) claims compatibility with most DeWalt 18V tools. Just to cover our bases-yes, we know some battery adapters work without any issues. While a manufacturer may not know whether or not you used third-party batteries with their product, you still risk voiding a warranty if or when they find out. It can even shorten the lifespan of the tool. That can present a problem and run the tool hotter than expected. If a tool cannot communicate properly to a battery pack, you can end up in a situation where it asks for too much power. Manufacturers don’t like when you bypass the safety communication protocols built into either their batteries and/or tools. Using a tool with third-party battery adapters can have a similar effect. Bounce that drill off a roof onto concrete and you’re unlikely to get it serviced under the warranty. 3 – Potentially Voiding the Manufacturer’s Warrantyīelieve it or not, manufacturers actually care about how you use their tools and batteries. Nobody enjoys either a dead battery or a burned-up tool. Now you’ve created a potential “brick” pack that can no longer take a charge. What’s more-if a lithium-ion battery is “dumb” because the tool is smart, then putting it on a “dumb” tool means you can now drain the pack down below its nominal level. In both cases, all of the built-in protection that keeps both the tool and the battery from going so far that it damages itself is gone. Unfortunately, when you bypassed it with a battery adapter or voltage converter, you likely took away its ability to protect itself. Your car is most likely going to shut itself down before permanent damage occurs, and your cordless tool does the same. Just like the battery adapter, you’ve bypassed the electronic communications to do so. You’re just telling the tool to push the gas pedal farther. The same thing goes for these voltage boosters. See how long it takes for your temperature gauge to rise and idiot lights to illuminate. Tool battery adapters largely ignore the lines that govern safe use of a tool. Yes, we can push the tool and battery beyond what they’re rated for, but not for long and not without consequences. Just like the car, there’s an optimal operating range. This comes from extreme heat production in the motor and/or pack. Driving the motor beyond what it is designed to maintain will most likely result in failure.
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